For as long as I can remember, I used to get my hair permed often. It used to be at least once a month. I never thought anything of it because I assumed that’s just how my hair was supposed to be done. But I started noticing a difference in hair texture among my classmates. Some were “natural,” a term I wasn’t familiar with. Their hair stuck out and could go into styles like Afro puffs while mine was usually in plaits. I thought their hair was cool, wondering why mine wasn’t like that. I looked at my baby pictures and saw that my hair used to be just as curly as theirs. So, what happened?
The History
I have been told the incorrect term all my life. A perm and a relaxer (what I got) are completely different things. A perm is used to make hair curlier while a relaxer is used to straighten hair. Relaxers were invented by Garett A. Morgan in the early 20th century. What started off as an accidental discovery when looking for something to reduce the friction on his sewing machines became one of the most popular products used within the Black community. This made it easier to assimilate into white society, but acted as fuel for lingering insecurity and self-hatred.
My Reasons for Going Natural
Last year, I made the decision to transition from relaxed to natural hair. First, I was concerned with what I was putting in my hair. Some relaxers are known for having lye in them, a chemical that is damaging to the hair and scalp. Also, a study conducted by the US National Institutes of Health found that there is a link between relaxers and cancer. Some relaxers are packed with what is known as endocrine disruptors which negatively affect hormones that regulate things such as cognitive development and reproductive health. Several lawsuits were filed against popular companies such as Ors Olive Oil and L’Oréal from women who have developed uterine cancer. More research is being conducted to narrow down the exact ingredients that increase the risk for cancer, but formaldehyde is a strong candidate being avoided by many.
While I was getting relaxers, my hair was in its worst state—breakage that drastically reduced its length, tangling, and greasiness. The issues were only exacerbated by my lack of knowledge about what products I should and shouldn’t use. I just went with whatever was in my house, a combination of products not tailored for my hair.
Second, I don’t like how straight hair looks on me. I don’t invest in the latest wigs or extensions, so I wear my hair out ninety percent of the time. Bone straight hair does not flatter me at all. I like my hair with volume, so curls and waves are what I settle for. I strive to have the thick, defined coils I had in my youth.
Third, I don’t like the message behind relaxers. Currently, there are more beauty trends than I can count. Women, especially Black women, are expected to look a certain way and are mocked by their own when they don’t fit the mold. I have always struggled to accept myself in that regard because I could never afford to look that way. Now that I’m older, I don’t want to. I want to be my own person, someone that isn’t pressured to follow the crowd. If everyone follows the same trends, then no one is unique.
Taking Care of Natural Hair
It is common to say that natural hair is hard to take care of. I think it depends on a variety of factors such as income, available time, and hair type. Some women may not be able to afford all the necessary products, don’t have the time to take care of their hair because of other responsibilities, or it is easier to get a relaxer because they have a very coily texture. There may also be confusion on how to take care of it because women who have had relaxers all their lives don’t have any experience with their natural hair.
I would first recommend talking to friends or family who have natural hair to ask for advice. It is easy to get overwhelmed online with differing options and methods. Starting within your community is a great stepping stone.
If there is no one to turn to in your community, then I would suggest checking out online communities such as r/naturalhair and r/blackhair on Reddit. You can easily get advice and feedback on your progress plus recommendations on which products to use. You can also watch YouTube videos, but try not to jump from channel to channel because each one will likely have different products and methods that will overwhelm you.
Finally, I would recommend experimenting. You can read many reviews and posts about a hundred methods, but the only way you will nail down what works for you is to try out different things. This can be simply buying a shampoo and conditioner from a brand that is catered towards Black women. If you notice it working, you don’t have to do anything else. If it’s not, you can consult with a licensed hair stylist with natural hair experience and/or switch products.
Takeaway
Maintaining natural hair can be a struggle, but there are plenty of resources to take advantage of to ease the process. Some may not believe the hassle is worth it and opt not to have natural hair. It’s okay. It’s not for everyone. When using relaxers, however, it’s important to use ones without lye or resort to other cleaner methods of straightening. Research for both sides is vital to keep lush, healthy hair.